A Grand Unified Theory of Avocado Toast

A politics of avocadoism is intrinsic to this history. If you worry about the eclipse of American agriculture—or the market effects of cheap, distance-shipped produce—you’d be right to regard this international trade with disgust. Rising water and labor prices in California (including, some say, the spectre of an increasing minimum wage) have handicapped its avocado-growing. If, on the other hand, you celebrate competitive international trade and cosmopolitan access, the avocado is a fruit of heroism.